Who Made Them Chefs?
By Donna Sibilia-Squillaro (Currents)
Executive Chef Nancy Rios has come full circle, professionally and personally, with the opening of Casa Solar, just nine months ago. Rios, only 4 years old when her family left their native Puerto Rico for the Jersey Shore, fondly remembers always being in the kitchen with her mother and grandmother. The oldest of five children, she was schooled in Long Branch, and later sought higher education in Early Childhood Development. After working in the field for some time, she challenged herself to return to school, becoming a dental laboratory technician. While employed in a private dental practice, she began catering private parties for the dentist she worked for. This led her to return to school once again, this time to Peter Kump's Culinary School, now known as the Institute of Culinary Education, in Manhattan. While driving into New York City on the first day of school, Rios thought, "I can't believe I can do this. Wait, I can do this!"
Rios trained in classical French cooking and Pastry for two years. Quickly realizing her education at the ICE opened doors to other learning opportunities, she volunteered through the James Beard Foundation to work with notable and up and coming chefs from all over the world.
Rios did both her Culinary and Pastry internships at Bayard's, an upscale French restaurant in downtown Manhattan, under the direction of Executive Chef Luc Dendievel (now at 55 Degrees in Sacramento, CA). She remained at the fine dining "Wall Street" establishment after graduation, expanding into banquet management as well. Feeding her constant quest for knowledge, she left for midtown, doing Garde Manger (cold-kitchen), and working with renknowned Swedish Chef Marcus Samuelsson, at his highly regarded NYC restaurant AquaVit. Rios then moved one block over and around the corner to Oceana, a noted seafood establishment.
Wanting to be closer to home, she took a position at the Bernardsville Inn, where she was single-handedly responsible for all vegetable preperation and plating, while acquiring more hands-on experience with foods from the sea. She then switched gears several times again, returning back to Pastry-making at the Reef Club, working in small bistros locally, and then moving on to both Chef de Cuisine and Pastry Chef at Le Fandy. With all of her hard-won knowledge both in and out of the kitchen tucked away, she began searching for a venue that would showcase both her training and her culture. Through word of mouth she found a partner, restaurateur and Pastry Chef, Juan Zaldivar, and opened Casa Solar in June, 2005.
With her own "playground for the palate," this diminutive dynamo is able to implement her classical training, mores and expression of self, both in the food she brings to the table and the atmosphere in which it is presented. Serving authentic Latin and modern cuisine, Rios takes you on an epicurean journey, from Puerto Rico to Spain, to Honduras, the Caribbean and Brazil, without missing a Latin beat. Using key ingredients such as guava, coconut milk, chorizo, sofrito, manchego, maduritos and longonisa, she transports you to a warmer place, both in mood and food, with the convenience of being close to home.
Rios, who hand-laid the mosaic tile on the signage of their Mona Lisa-smile sun logo atop the scrolled iron and mahogany entrance, was instrumental in the design and construction of the restaurant. Painting the saffron-colored walls, staining the wood trim and helping to lay the terra cotta-colored tile foor in the front of the house, she chose to keep her kitchen intimate in size, yet accessible to everything she needs. Involved in every aspect of Casa Solar, she strives to get personal with her guests through the food she prepares for them. Purchasing the food, butchering the meats and cleaning the fish, she does it all; from the demi-glace to the stocks to the homemade ice cream and desserts (which Zaldivar helps create), through the garnishing of the plates.
With live music of Latin, Blues or Jazz on the weekends, Rios is able to enjoy a little entertainment while working away in the kitchen. Casa Solar has become this chef's domain, the product of much toil through many kitchens. It also, happily, becomes her life.
Casa Solar
1104 Main St., Belmar. (732)-556-1144. Lunch, Tuesday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. Dinner, Tuesday through Sunday, 5:00 - 10:00 p.m. Reservations gladley accepted. BYOB & Sangria set up available. Accepts major credit cards, Private catering available. Seats 56, with additional courtyard seating, weather permitting.
This review of Casa Solar has been featured in Currents Early Spring 2006 magazine. For additional information please visit their website at www.currentsnj.com.